Days go by very quickly and I can't believe I've been in Goa for 5 weeks now. I've settled in very well to the way of life here, although I must try to slow down and get time for myself away from the kids. It's like being part of an enormous family who all want a part of you, and trying to divide myself between them all. A typical day involves teaching at the orphanage school in the mornings, taking the upper classes for computer skills, and helping individual pupils with their English. In the afternoon, I usually go home with the older boys where they are joined by pupils who attend the local state school in Santa Cruz, but who also live in the orphanage. Here I help them with their homework between 2 and 4 o'clock, and try to get a bit of time to myself by relaxing in the garden for an hour while they do cleaning duties between 4 and 5. I've bought a hammock and put it between two of the trees, being careful that I'm not lying directly under the coconuts that could fall anytime.
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The kids love playing sport and after their duties, I have the choice of playing badminton, with many obstacles to trip over in the garden, going to the local ground for a game of football, or cycling back to the school for a game of cricket with the younger boys. The younger boys all live in the school and have a lovely field nearby with buffalos and goats grazing, (although not a very even bounce), and it's magical to watch the sun setting through the trees.
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In the evening I usually return to the older boys house and help lead a time of worship and bible study, introducing them to some new songs as well as trying to learn their Hindi ones. (They all speak English and every subject is studied in English, so there is no communication problem, apart from some of them talking very fast). They often light a fire on the floor in the sitting room made from coconut shells in order to keep away the mosquitoes. However sometimes it gets so smoky that no one can see or breathe let alone sing. (All of them are pyromaniacs and I am very surprised they haven’t burnt the house down yet).
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After another hour of homework, they all have a huge evening meal at 9 o'clock just before going to bed. It's usually rice for the third time in the day with the additional variation of potato bhaji, dhal or an egg. Although I have not suffered any ill effects from the food or lack of hygiene, my stomach has struggled to digest all the rice they eat and I frequently end up eating only half of what they have. Recently I've been going back to my flat and having a 'western' meal out at the local restaurant, together with a friend who's also working out here and staying with me.
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We have been given a very large and spacious house that could easily sleep all the kids were it not for the fact that there are only two beds and no other furniture at present. Unfortunately it's quite a distance from the orphanage and school and we have to cross the city by local bus in the morning, and get a lift back in the evening in a dilapidated van belonging to the school which keeps running out of petrol. (Yesterday we had to push it for half a mile in the heat to get to the petrol station). The buses are crowded way beyond their official standing limit, and everyone is packed so tightly that no one can get off without lots of pushing and shoving.
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I've bought myself a very cheap bicycle to go between the school and orphanage in Santa Cruz, although all the kids want to take turns to ride on the back, as is common practice in Goa. (Quite often you see three people on a scooter and sometimes up to six). There are enormous numbers of bicycles and scooters weaving in all directions without any roundabouts or traffic lights to control them, and although they drive on the left like us, they also like to squeeze down the middle whenever they can. So you take your life in your hands whenever you go out on the street.
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One advantage of living on the other side of town is that the flat is very close to the sea. As a result, I start the day by going for a 500 metre jog down to the beach at Mirimar, followed by a lovely swim, and another jog along the beach to get dry. I am often the only one in the water, watched by several lifeguards and other inquisitive onlookers, and when I come out, for some reason people always want to photograph me with their friends, children or wives. Running back along the road means passing lots of stray dogs, so I have to be careful not to get bitten since I have not had my rabies injection.
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The children from the orphanage school recently had a day off and went to the beach for a picnic. We managed to transport 100 children on two trips in a small minibus that only seats 16. Needless to say, it was quite packed. At the beach it was very hot and not much shade, but like Englishmen, they seem quite used to playing cricket and football out in the midday sun. Unfortunately no one apart from me was allowed in the sea, because they were all wearing their school uniform. However the older boys eventually decided they would rebel and went in the water in spite of getting their long trousers all wet.
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At the weekend the children are sometimes allowed to watch TV or a video, and with the World Cup Cricket taking place in Asia at the moment we have been closely following the results. We had a great time watching England play India, and hooked up the TV to a projector in order to watch it on a big screen. It was very exciting, but also frustrating whenever the electricity failed due to power cuts or bad wiring. (It is typical to find bare wires stuck into the sockets, or trailing across the floor, and sometimes when you go to pull out a plug, the whole socket comes with it). I was the only one cheering for England in a room of 50 others cheering for India. Fortunately the match ended in a tie and everyone was happy.
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So despite all the risks that I have faced from fire, mosquitoes, buffalos, dogs, food, coconuts, traffic, and electricity, I have now survived for over a month, and have even lost some weight. I am really looking forward to the rest of my time here, anticipating unexpected adventures, and if anyone from the UK would like to come out and visit, you would be most welcome. Just bring another hammock!
Tim Geddes
Skype name: tgeddes
Email: geddes.tim@gmail.com
Tel: 08443030555 followed by 00919561231721 (1.5 pence per min)
